NewsOK: Oklahoma City News, Sports, Weather & Entertainment

New Red Rooster has plenty to crow about, and how I became fate's fool at Fatty's Smokehouse

Advertisement
Decorative dishes at The Red Rooster Bar. [Dave Cathey/The Oklahoman]
Decorative dishes at The Red Rooster Bar. [Dave Cathey/The Oklahoman]

Venerable Concepts, the folks who brought you Holey Rollers, opened the doors to the re-imagined Venerable and Historic Red Rooster Bar on Monday.

Owners Andrea Koester, Josh Gautreaux, John Otjen and chef Tim Mort undertook the task but not until after Zeb Gautreaux gutted the building of decades of eau de ashtray.

The result is a clean, (yes clean!) and inviting bar and dining room with a gorgeous bar featuring specialty and classic cocktails, wine and beer (now served above 3.2 octane) and a full menu from Mort.

The last time I ate dinner at the Red Rooster before Friday would’ve been a little over 10 years ago, and it was a calzone delivered by Pizza House after the bartender tossed me a take-out menu from behind the bar.

Chile Rojo Wings and a Charcuterie board from The Red Rooster. [Dave Cathey/The Oklahoman]
Chile Rojo Wings and a Charcuterie board from The Red Rooster. [Dave Cathey/The Oklahoman]

So, when the kitchen delivered a beautiful charcuterie board bursting with as much color as flavor, I had to laugh a little. Then I ate and didn’t stop until my wife Lori, and I had mowed through pasta, hot wings, and falafel.

A Hemingway Daiquiri and an Apropos from The Red Rooster. [Dave Cathey/The Oklahoman]
A Hemingway Daiquiri and an Apropos from The Red Rooster. [Dave Cathey/The Oklahoman]

But not until after the libations arrived. Lori had a Hemingway Daiquiri (rum, lime and grapefruit juices, Maraschino liqueur and lime) and I had an Apropos (gin, lime juice, Aperol, and yellow Chartreuse).

They should sell plenty of smoked and fried Hatch red chile wings, which weren’t as messy as you might expect. Chef Chris Becker’s Della Terra Pasta is put to good use by Mort’s crew, mixing it with mushrooms, fresh vegetables and basil-pecan pesto. The falafel was distinctive and addictive.

Della Terra Pasta is served at The Red Rooster Bar. [Dave Cathey/The Oklahoman]
Della Terra Pasta is served at The Red Rooster Bar. [Dave Cathey/The Oklahoman]

The Rooster closed a little over a year ago after decades supporting the Paseo back when little else was. It’s great to see it get a second act.

Falafel is served with hummus, tapenade, chickpeas, tzatziki and flatbread. [Dave Cathey/The Oklahoman]
Falafel is served with hummus, tapenade, chickpeas, tzatziki and flatbread. [Dave Cathey/The Oklahoman]

Let me know what you think.



Fatty's ain't blowing smoke, it's serious BBQ

Fatty's Kitchen Sink includes brisket, rib, sausage, smoked chicken and burnt ends.
Fatty's Kitchen Sink includes brisket, rib, sausage, smoked chicken and burnt ends.

MOORE – Where do I begin to talk about my maiden voyage to Fatty’s Smokehouse?

Do I start with how cool it is that the original Del Rancho appears to have found a new tenant showing signs it could be around for a very long time? Perhaps the beautiful plates of barbecue, including gorgeous Frenched drumsticks smoked, fried, sauced and served as Lollipops.

Or do I go straight into what will go down as one of the all-time most embarrassing episodes in my career of food-duding?

Since Fatty’s is the culmination of former US Foods center-of-the-plate specialist Mark Picard and his family, let’s focus on their achievement before the humiliation begins.

I met my good buddy and south-side dining spy Glen Cosper at Fatty’s the week after it opened. We arrived a little after noon and were able to order with little wait. A line to grow minutes after we ordered and had stretched out the door before we left.

Apparently, Moore America has been making a habit of this at Fatty’s since it opened a couple weeks ago. First, you should know Fatty’s serves more than barbecue. It also offers burgers, perhaps nod to its drive-in roots.

But for the most part, folks were lined up for the barbecue.

We got the Fatty’s Kitchen Sink and the Lollipop Dinner. This gave us a sampling of brisket, sausage, burnt ends, smoked chicken breast and ribs plus the aforementioned drumsticks and a bunch of sides.

We opted for a hot link, which was excellent. The brisket stood up to all exterior inspection, was fork tender and juicy as you want. I do like my brisket to breathe a little-more black-pepper-driven fire, but that’s a personal preference, but this is brisket done right. The burnt ends were flavorful, but maybe a little toothier than is exemplary. Delicious nonetheless. I only had a couple of nibbles off a rib, but it was enough to want more on my next visit.

Lollipops from Fatty's Smokehouse. [Dave Cathey/The Oklahoman]
Lollipops from Fatty's Smokehouse. [Dave Cathey/The Oklahoman]

Lollipops were the star of this visit. I’m not going to pummel you with adjectives, just take a look at the photo and know it’s all that and then some. If ever there were lollipops worth forming a guild to celebrate, it is these.

Spicy beans were good and a little fresh cranberry made for a distinctive slaw. Fatty’s corn is smoked and soaked in butter, making for very rich bites. It’s just a little mayo, dry cheese and a squirt of lime from full-on Mexican elote.

Fatty's also features a full burger menu, including an homage to the Big Ed's Challenge. Eat a three-pound burger and fries, win a T-shirt for the Fatty's Smokehouse Challenge.

"Challenge accepted," cried a voice from the past cried in my mind before my 51-year-old body snuffed it out. Be happy to observe someone else attempt it.

Now for the floor show.  

Seating is very snug as are the aisles on either side of the L-shaped dining room, which can get crowded when a line starts to form. And that’s the seed from which my great humiliation sprang.

After working my way through the growing crowd, I found Glen at the last booth on the aisle closest to the drive-through window. Glen was snugly nested into the side nearest the wall, so I carefully tried to slide into place on the other side. In so doing, the placket of my shirt caught on the corner of the table, putting the pearl buttons on my shirt to the task.

They failed miserably.

I plopped into place, my shirt wide open with my hands full and Glen trying his best to look away with bursting into laughter.

“Welcome to the ham show,” I told him.

It's a credit to the quality of food at Fatty's that Glen didn't jettison from the proceedings immediately. Or it could be he couldn't wiggle free from the booth. No one will ever know for sure, but don't worry about any "Ham Show" revivals. I plan to wear a pullover or T-shirt next time I drop by for a Lollipop Guild meeting.

Fatty's is at 302 W Main St. in Moore and is open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Check out the full menu, click here.

Check the blog back soon for looks at Stitch Cafe and Whiskey Biscuit.

If you've been to Fatty's or the Red Rooster, let me know what you thought.

Related Photos
<figure><img src="//cdn2.newsok.biz/cache/r960-a45ffd0e458fbd8192b8450a4a5e9475.jpg" alt="Photo - " title=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure><figure><img src="//cdn2.newsok.biz/cache/r960-b86621e29c198bc2fa51c6e8a7f5eb6d.jpg" alt="Photo - " title=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure><figure><img src="//cdn2.newsok.biz/cache/r960-257d43abf6e63cb794a2d243e93e9cbb.jpg" alt="Photo - " title=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure><figure><img src="//cdn2.newsok.biz/cache/r960-268862b1086f86bd79567213982e8b4d.jpg" alt="Photo - " title=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure><figure><img src="//cdn2.newsok.biz/cache/r960-1d08448b2d3a3816f9984b902a43bc69.jpg" alt="Photo - " title=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure><figure><img src="//cdn2.newsok.biz/cache/r960-9b363d103f78b97ce696429a2f722839.jpg" alt="Photo - " title=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure><figure><img src="//cdn2.newsok.biz/cache/r960-a6d189108750bffd77bac398be926e85.jpg" alt="Photo - " title=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure><figure><img src="//cdn2.newsok.biz/cache/r960-19bb9743146b7d2ea7c6f15084cd8247.jpg" alt="Photo - " title=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>
Dave Cathey

The Oklahoman's food editor, Dave Cathey, keeps his eye on culinary arts and serves up news and reviews from Oklahoma’s booming food scene. Read more ›

Comments